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That first patio table at a
favourite bar or café is as much a sign of the changing season as
any equinox – and about six times as exciting. In Rome, patios are
tucked in enclosed piazzas. In Madrid, open-fronted cafés
incorporate the passing parade. But here? There’s no one rule
defining patio culture. We took a cross-country tour to find
Canada’s best al fresco lounges God’s climatological apology to the rest of the country – is natural terrace territory, and if Canadian history had gone somewhat differently, had Victoria been named Isabella or Eugénie, its patio scene would be much different. But it was founded by the British, known for their parasols, safari hats and other machinations to keep them out of the sun, so it’s only in the past decade that patios have started to creep into this lovely town: The only real patio strip is on Cook Street between Southgate and Chapman streets. Yet, as Victoria discovers patios, it’s going all out. Even a Mac’s Milk (324 Cook St., 250-381-8631) has a five-table patio, where city workers sip their Seattle’s Best and kids hang out with late-night Slurpees. The Beagle Pub (301 Cook St., 250-382-3301, www.beaglepub.com) and Starbucks (320 Cook St., 250-380-7606) are the only large patios on the street (with about 20 and 15 tables respectively). The rest are tiny, including at the 1950s-retro Rosie’s Diner (253 Cook St., 250-384-6090) with a couple of tables, and at Bubby Rose’s Bakery (313 Cook St., 250-360-1811, www.bubbyrosesbakery.com). Pizzeria Prima Strada (230 Cook St., 250-590-8595, pizzeriaprimastrada.com), with three tables, is the newest addition to the village. Bert Archer Vancouver When the sun is shining, Vancouver sparkles – and its patios become the hottest seats in town. Here, it’s all about the view: the waterfront with snow-capped mountains for backdrop. So what if it is a cliché? It’s beautiful. But, though they look great, Vancouver’s best-situated patios are not known for great eats. Keep it simple or stick to drinks and eat up that fabulous vista instead. The view from The Teahouse, a Second World War garrison at Stanley Park’s elevated Ferguson Point (Stanley Park Drive, 604-669-3281), is unparalleled – hence the relentless stream of wedding parties. Expect everyone including your Granny to be clamouring for a spot: Don’t make the trip without making a reservation. Right on Jericho Beach, The Galley Patio and Grill (1300 Discovery St., 604-222-1331, www.thegalley.ca) bustles with families, burnished beach bums and salty old sailing dogs chowing down on fish tacos and bison burgers. The deck looks out over Jericho Beach and across Burrard Inlet, with clear blue water to the west and the downtown skyline glittering in the east. At the Watermark on Kits Beach (Kitsilano Beach, 1305 Arbutus St., 604-738-5487), grab a table, order a bottle of wine and watch Vancouver play as the sun sets – the west-facing view is breathtaking. A pedestrian menu makes this one a good bet for a sundowner. Don’t stay for dinner. A casual spot popular after work with downtowners, the Mill Marine Bistro (Harbour Green Park, 1199 West Cordova St., 604-687-6455, www.millbistro.ca) sits on the edge of Coal Harbour near the float plane dock and offers a view of the North Shore mountains across the water. Nachos, decent pizza and a pitcher of beer: What more do you need? With a huge expanse of grass and a water park out front, it’s also perfect for families. The prettiest patio in the city, at L’Altro Buca (1906 Haro St., 604-683-6912, www.altrobuca.ca), may not have a view, but the restaurant more than makes up for that with its excellent pastas and extensive grappa list. It’s your best bet in town for a delicious al fresco dinner that is relaxed but sophisticated. Fiona Morrow Calgary This is not a natural patio city. In fact, 15 years ago, you would have been hard-pressed to find a single one. But then Kensington sparked up, a little bohemian enclave in the middle of Cowtown. These days there are about a dozen patios, including one courtyard version – the treed back of the hippie-ish, singer-songwritery Oolong Tea House (110 10th St. NW, 403-283-0333, www.oolonghouse.com) – and two rooftops, including the good-times spot Julio’s Barrio (101 10th St. NW, 403-203-3066, www.juliosbarrio.com) and fine pub-grubby Jupiter Restaurant and Bar (124 10th St. NW, 403-270-3347). Some say, though, the best of Calgary’s patios is to be found at The Ship and Anchor (534 17th Ave. SW, 403-245-3333, www.shipandanchor.com), which may be – despite the view of the Shell Station – the busiest in the city. The rest are out front, and vary in size. But the thing that really tells you what Calgarians are made of is the fact that most patio owners never bring their furniture in. Calgary gets chinooks – warm spells in the dead of winter – and people, sometimes perversely in shorts, will sit out on patios in November or January, snow still on the ground even though the temperature is, for the day at least, in the teens. Bert Archer Toronto Some stereotypes are just too true to bother denying: Toronto values efficiency over almost anything else, and its patios are a testament to the fact. Sidewalks are there to keep cars away from plate-glass windows and to direct pedestrians into shops. Patios would only get in the way. What to do? Put them out back, on the roofs, or around the corners. The best courtyard patios, like Allen’s (143 Danforth Ave., 416-463-3086, www.allens.to), Queen Mother Cafe (208 Queen St. W., 416-598-4719, www.queenmothercafe.ca), The Rosedale Diner (1164 Yonge St., 416-923-3122, www.rosedalediner.com) or Fat Cat Wine Bar (331 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-535-4064, www.fatcat.ca) are invisible from the storefront. If you want to look down on the rest of the city, the rooftop patio at Paupers Pub (539 Bloor St. W., 416-530-1331, www.pauperspub.com) and The Flight Deck atop The Pilot (22 Cumberland St., 416-923-5716, www.thepilot.ca) are tops. But it’s the corner lots where Toronto’s patios really shine. Future Bakery (483 Bloor St. W., 416-922-5875) dominates Bloor Street’s Annex strip, inviting students, writers, filmmakers and media types to hang out with cheap beer and decent coffee. Café Diplomatico (594 College St., 416-534-4637, www.diplomatico.ca) was founded in 1968, fathering Little Italy’s College Street strip. Lovers of spaghetti-and-meatballs era Italo-Canadian food congregate for unpretentious confabs in this hip ’hood. And, of course, The Black Bull Tavern. Parked at the beginning of the Queen West strip (298 Queen St. W., 416-593-2766), this former biker bar has a massive patio for those who prefer the shopping end of the street’s cultural spectrum. Bert Archer Winnipeg Few cities are as grateful for warm weather as Winnipeg, and it shows along Corydon Avenue, the city’s patio row. On the twin decks at Bar Italia (737 Corydon Ave., 204-452-1929), students and musicians mix with the likes of filmmaker Guy Maddin and even a retired cabinet minister or two. Along the same block, the packed patio at Saffron’s (681 Corydon Ave., 204-284-2602) is a testament to the restaurant’s tender bison ribs, crisp calamari and attentive drink service. Closer to downtown, the rooftop tables at Tavern United in the old Eaton’s Powerhouse building (260 Hargrave St., 204-944-0022) provide classic tavern fare, a great view and an easy stumble across the street to MTS Centre, Winnipeg’s biggest sports and concert venue. In the Exchange District, which offers a stunning collection of 19th-century Chicago-style architecture, Whisky Dix (436 Main St., 204-944-7539) is the place for raucous drinks and country tunes. For a more upscale atmosphere, the steaks and wine cellar at 529 Wellington (529 Wellington Cres., 204-487-8325) are among the best anywhere. But if the simple equation of sun, suds and scenery is all you seek, no traditional patio can beat Canwest Park, one of the world’s finest little ballparks. The view can’t be beat. Patrick White Ottawa With the city’s social life revolving around its historic ByWard Market, it’s not surprising that many of the best patios in town can be found in this vibrant downtown district. The Irish Village –four connected pubs anchored by Heart and Crown (67 Clarence St., 613-562-0674) – is nestled in the heart of the market and affords its patrons one of the best views of the street action. And although the patio at the Empire Grill (47 Clarence St., 613-241-1343) is covered, it offers a higher-end experience for those who want to both gawk and be gawked at. Those looking for a grittier experience should find the back door at the very punk-rock Dominion Tavern (33 York St., 613-241-7706), which leads to a cozy patio that is one of the best-kept secrets in Ottawa. A little farther from the market, but still downtown, the Parliament Pub (101 Sparks Street Mall, 613-563-0636) offers a view of the Hill as well as menu items inspired by government officials. Why not try a “Jack Layton and Olivia Chow Roasted Eggplant and Brie Panini” or a “Stephen Harper’s Pepperoni Pizza”? D’Arcy McGee’s (44 Sparks St., 613-230-4433) patio offers a view of the War Memorial, as well as the opportunity to rub shoulders with the political elite (or at least their well-lubricated staffers). Of course, the city also boasts the historic Rideau Canal. The Canal Ritz (375 Queen Elizabeth Dr., 613-238-8998) and The Royal Oak (221 Echo Dr., 613-234-3700) are great spots to enjoy the waterway. Steve Ladurantaye Montreal Welcome to patio heaven. On one day each year, when the first double-digit temperature is forecast for a weekend, St-Denis Street between Sherbrooke Street and Laurier Avenue explodes into what natives call the côté soleil: the sunny side of the street. If you happen to be there that day, get out early or you’ll never get a seat. Which wouldn’t be a total loss – just parading up and down the strip is a lark. But sitting, of course, is much better. There are at least two dozen places – pick any one. Au Près de ma Blonde (3845 St-Denis St., 514-845-5385) is good for beer with a low-end vibe. The less hoi polloi Bistro Côté Soleil (3979 St-Denis St., 514-282-8037, bistrocotesoleil.com) is known for its bone-white tablecloths, appetizers and small dishes. Aux Deux Marie (4329 St-Denis St. 514-844-7246) is good for coffee. And the Haitian-run Caribbean fusion place just upstairs, Kalalu (4331 St-Denis St., 514-849-7787, www.kalalu.ca) offers an aerial view. Bert Archer Halifax One particular patio table in Halifax alone would justify a trip to this city, which likes the al fresco experience so much that it has an annual “patio day.” On May 15, businesses are allowed to build wooden patio planks out onto the sidewalk, and wooden sidewalk replacements jut out into the streets. But it’s a four-seater in the northwest corner of the third-storey rooftop of Your Father’s Moustache (5686 Spring Garden Rd., 902-423-6766, www.yourfathersmoustache.ca), a student and young business-type place that outshines the rest. In the late-afternoon sun, with the spray of foliage from the gardens dominating your view, this is a place to spend hours. You have to eat, though, so for nourishment you’ll want to visit Little Fish (1740 Argyle St., 902-425-4025, www.littlefishrestaurant.ca). The building dates from 1816, and was where Anna Leonowens (of The King and I fame) taught art for 12 years, and where, later, the first-class corpses from the Titanic were laid in state. The 30-seat patio gets more light than most in the city. Its mid-price and top-notch seafood is popular with the city hall and office workers in the ’hood. There’s even a quite extensive Nova Scotia wine list. For coffee, there’s only one choice: Local chain Uncommon Grounds Coffee House (5700 Spring Garden Rd. in the Public Gardens, 902-420-1562, www.coffeesoldhere.ca) has a seasonal location in the white wooden Horticultural Hall (circa 1848) with a wraparound patio overlooking the bandshell. It attracts families, skaters, seniors and tourists. Summer comes late to Halifax, so you might want to reserve your lounging for mid-August. Bert Archer
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Parliament
Pub: New pub mimics House of Commons
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Parliament Pub Review
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Fired up over the NDP’s chances
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Paul martin's now insurmountable sway over the Liberals has the potential to choke off meaningful debate within the party, writes JOHN GEDDES. There’s a pub across Wellington Street from Parliament where the sandwiches are named after famous politicians. The Paul Martin is bruschetta. But what John Manley swallowed with Martin’s name on his lips last week wasn’t Roma tomatoes and shaved asiago cheese—it was his own pride. Like Brain Tobin and Alan Rock before him, Manley gulped, winced and conceded that Martin will be the next prime minister. All that’s left of the leadership race now is the bitter taste in their mouths—and the obstinate candidacy of Sheila Copps. Over lunch in her Parliament Hill office on the day after Manley surprised Ottawa by bowing out, Copps muses between bites of falafel about her new status as the last of the contenders still willing to remain in the ring with Martin. One subject the Canadian heritage minister won’t discuss is the reality that not only is Martin virtually certain to demolish her, his margin of victory will force pundits to hung for alternatives to the already over-used “cakewalk” and “coronation.” What she is eager to talk about is preventing Martin’s towering pre-eminence from choking off all meaningful debate among Liberals. “We’ve always been strong as a party because we have managed to bring together all of the elements that are percolating up through Canadian society,” Copps says. “What seems to be being suggested by some now—that we should basically annoint a leader — would be very damaging for our party, for its renewal, for its capacity to attract new people.” |
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Ottawa FoodiesOverall: one thumbs up! Review by: K.M.
Mennie |
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Top
Ottawa
Citizen, Sat May 26
WHAT
LEADERSHIP CAMPAIGN? 
LET'S
GET READY TO
Pictured:
artichoke heart salad ($9 or $10), garlic bread with cheese (really
good, c. $5), and, barely visible, a chicken wrap with a Caesar ($?
and dissatisfaction with the mayo but high marks for the lettuce in
the salad; noted: non-Kraft cheese).